Things to look for when buying a pinball game

These tips will help you avoid common pitfalls when buying a pinball game. They are from a technician's perspective, rather than an avid fan or collector's point of view.

The one item that most affects the market value of a pinball game (outside of intangible factors as theme, etc.) is the condition of the playfield (that surface upon which the ball rolls). Ideally, it will be free from any gouges, pits or places where the paint has rubbed off. This affects not only the attractiveness of the game, but also the playability, since damaged spots will tend to redirect the ball from the course which it would normally take.

In the real world, it is not unusual to find some damage near pop bumpers, kickers (slingshots) and in the ball track leading into the game from the shooter stick. But the less the better should you ever decide to sell it.

There are other aspects that you can investigate as well. Have the seller open up the game, first the headbox (where the score displays are), then cabinet (that part of the game under the playfield). Look in both places for tidy wiring, boards which are secured in place and an absence of obvious damage. It is normal on Williams pinballs to see some evidence of heat in a long series of resistors located in the lower right quarter of the solenoid driver board in games of the early 80s. (This board is located below the CPU board and is attached to it by pins sticking through a white connector.) Similarly, check the wiring in the cabinet and on the underside of the playfield. Solder connections should be smooth and shiny and wires bundled together neatly.

After putting down the playfield into its normal position, have the seller start the game. Activate all switches, pop bumpers and targets by hand to make sure they work correctly and that a score is displayed for each action. While doing this, inspect the condition of the rubber rings. They should be flexible and when pulled away from their mounting posts be smooth and solid with no evidence of cracking or crumbling. A rubber ring set can cost $20 up and take half an hour to an hour to replace.

Replace the glass (make sure it is tempered glass for your safety) and play the game and see if you enjoy the play. Some games are heavy on chrome and complexity while others are big and slow. Make sure the unique music which plays in the background will not drive you buggy when you have heard it for the 500^thtime.

Finally, open the coin door and put the game through a self test. This will test the score displays, controlled lights and solenoids. Note if there are missing segments to the displays, lights indicating bonuses or scoring opportunities which do not flash, or solenoids that do not kick in when the game tells them to do so. These may be minor broken wires or burnt bulbs or indicate defects on various boards in the headbox. You can determine how to start the self test with the manual which should be part of the package. If you buy the game without it, you can expect to pay about $25 for one from a distributor. The manual will give electronic diagrams for the boards and wiring, tell you how the lights and coils are connected and how to set game options for sound, scoring, etc.

If you buy a game with defects, you may reasonably expect to pay $100 up for correction of those and any other less obvious defects, so you should adjust your offer accordingly. Missing or broken plastic pieces are not easy to replace and are available more at collectors type prices when available at all. Backglass, that piece of glass which covers the score displays, is a collectors item, especially if is has pictures of famous people like Fonzie, Ronald Reagan, etc. Some go for hundreds of dollars. If missing, it may not economically practical to replace it.

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